Leaving the surf

Surfing magazine cover, 2008
When I was a practising surfer, I briefly belonged to a nationally and internationally-affiliated surfing organisation. But I realised that I had no interest in organised group surfing activities and resigned my membership. Or “left the surf” as they say in surfing circles.

Actually, they don’t say that.

Surfers might ask why they haven’t seen you at club meets and competitions, but the idea that membership has anything to do with the way you surf would seem ludicrous to them.

When you stop tapping the energy of the ocean—that’s when you “leave the surf”.

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